Amazing castles, breathtaking views, a visit to historical Nizwa, a train into a cave, and a lung busting cycle ride up Oman’s tallest mountain, to see the Grand Canyon of Arabia, would mark a fantastic week of cycling through the Hijar Mountains.

After visiting Wadi Bani Khalid, and spending a couple of nights camped in a date plantation, it was time to continue my journey west.

I needed to retrace my steps back to the town of Bidiyah, the town from where I had accessed Wahiba Sands, so the first 40km that day was on roads that I had already cycled. 

Leaving Wadi Bani Khalid there was a short steep climb from the wadi to the top of the valley which was as steep as the climb in but nowhere near as long.  

The many camels that I had seen the previously on this road were still grazing along the side of the highway.

By the time I reached Bidiyah it was time for lunch so I pulled over at a restaurant to get some food.

While eating I looked over  my route for the following few days. My plan was to first visit the historical town of Nizwa, before cycling up Jebel Sham’s, at just over 3000m it is Oman’s highest mountain,  from where I planned to access the top of Oman’s Grand Canyon.

When I finished eating and went outside to get my bike in the car park of the restaurant there were some camels that were being transported.  When transported in large numbers they are loaded into the back of a truck and spend the journey stood up.  However, when moving just one or two they are often put in the back of a pickup truck and tied down.

There was a petrol station next to the restaurant and as it had been a couple of weeks since I last put air in my tyres I used their hose to pump them up.

I still have no idea how inner tubes lose pressure without being punctured !!! (think about if you haven’t ridden your bike for 6 months)

The distance to Nizwa was over 200 km and I planned to cover it in a couple of days and camp in the desert en route.  Probably for the first time on this trip I had a choice of roads which I could take and Catherine, who was a cyclist and warmshowers host living in Oman, had given me tips on the best roads to take.

The only road out of Bidiyah was the main highway.

Although it was not busy after a few kilometres there was a side road which ran parallel to the main road and so I took this as I had it to myself.

The road headed north as it skirted around the edge of Wahiba Sands and it was a great ride with desert dunes to my left and the mountains to my right

There are no major hills along this route but the road climbed steadily all day.  I only passed a handful of small villages and as they all had a mosque finding water was not a problem and was available  every 20km or so. 

At the 80km mark I came to a fork in the road where  I could have taken either road as one looped 80km clockwise to the town of Izki while the other road looped anticlockwise to the same town. Catherine had said that the clockwise loop was a much quieter road (always good to be in touch with local cyclists as they have ridden these roads before) and so I took her advice.

As soon as I turned off the main highway and cycled down Route 27 the traffic died and I had the road to myself

I had now covered nearly 130km and decided that as soon as I passed the next mosque I would fill up with water and head into the desert to find a spot to sleep.  I didn’t have to wait long until I found what I needed.

To the right of the mosque there was a dry wadi bed and so I cycled down this for a kilometer or so before finding a beautiful spot on top of a small hill to pitch my tent

After a quick pasta dinner I set my chair up to watch one of the most spectacular sunsets that I had seen so far on this trip.

I’m not sure how far I was from the nearest city but with no ambient light or noise to disturb me it was a beautiful night to be sleeping out in the desert.

The next morning I was once again up with the sunrise.  The day before the temperature had been the hottest day that I had cycled through so far and I was expecting that afternoon to reach well over 40C degrees. 

My plan for the day was to get on the road early, get my head down and hopefully cover the remaining 100km and reach Nizwa by lunchtime.

Instead of having breakfast at my campsite I got breakfast on the road and stopped at the first restaurant that I passed.  My plan was good, but the road that I was cycling down was very remote and I did not pass anywhere to eat for the first couple of hours.

Eventually, at a major crossroads there was a Pakistani restaurant

I had my normal breakfast of daal and as it was early they were still cooking fresh fresh flatbreads.

After having a great feed I didn’t plan on stopping again until I got to Nizwa and when I set off even the wind was giving me a helping hand.

About 20km down the road I saw what looked like an abandoned village on a hillside and as I was making good time I decided to take a detour to have a look.

Although many of the house walls were still standing most of the roofs had collapsed.  All of the houses were abandoned but it still felt like I was intruding on people’s lives as I wandered through the buildings.

I have no idea where the people had moved to as when I set off through the date trees to get back to the main road I did not see another village.

Once I was back on the highway I got my head down as the temperature was rising.  The only time I stopped for the next couple of hours was to refill my water bottle at one of the many mosques that I passed.

By 1pm I had covered 80km and even though I had not yet reached Nizwa I decided to reward myself with a packet of grapes.

Shops which sell fruit and veg tend to be advertised as cold stores and there is nothing better than large juicy grapes to keep the energy levels up on a bike.

I’m not sure whether it was eating grapes that made me think about alcohol but that day a I cycled in the blazing sun I really fancied a pint of ice cold beer. 

I was about 15km from Nizwa when I passed the Golden Tulip Hotel.  I decided to chance my arm and cycled in to see if they had a bar. I was hoping that if they did then they served non-residents as it was pretty obvious from my sweaty state and cycle gear that I wasn’t staying at the 5 star hotel. 

I left my bike with the valet parking guys and asked the ‘bell boy’ if there was a bar.  He smiled and said there was before showing me the way.

It may have been 6 GBP a pint but it was ice cold and so worth it.

This was my first pint on the road in Oman, and after savouring every mouthful it was time to finish my ride to Nizwa.  I again had options of roads to take – either to join the highway and go round the hills or take the ‘mountain’ road over them.  I decided that the scenic mountain road would be more fun (I think the pint had gone to my head) and set off into the hills.

It was a good choice as I pretty much had the road to myself as it wound its way through sleepy hill villages.

The road eventually entered Nizwa from the east through a grand double arched gateway.

A quick check of the map showed me that the old city was about 5km further north. As always when I stayed in cities I was going to stay at a hotel and just before getting to the old city I passed Al Diyar Hotel and with a cheeky Blakey upgrade I bagged a great room for 35 GBP. (sometimes arriving by bicycle in 40C degree heat has its advantages!!!!)

In Oman, most businesses close between 1pm and 4pm so there was nothing else to do but go and laze by the hotel pool (yep – I had gone posh!!!!)

Not sure if it was having a pint or cycling through the intense desert sun, but I fell asleep by the pool and when I woke up it was pitch black.  I was still tired and decided that old town Nizwa could wait for the following day and retired to my air conditioned room for an early night.

The price of the room included a buffet style breakfast that had a coffee machine that not only served real coffee but they had a huge thermas of karak tea.  I was in heaven !!!

After stuffing my face for a couple of hours (I had to get my moneys worth !!!) it was time to head out into the blazing sun to see what Nizwa had to offer.

Many moons ago Nizwa used to be the capital city of the country before it was relocated to Muscat, and today it is still an important meeting point at the base of the Hijar Mountains. The main attractions from my perspective were the fort, souq and Falaj Daris. 

The fort was my first stop of the day and it wasn’t hard to find as it dominated the sky line of the city.

Inside the fort there is a labyrinth of narrow passageways that wind there way through the main castle area.

An internal staircase takes you to the top of the castle and at the bottom of each set of stairs was a glass floor which tested your level of trust (most people seemed to step around the edge rather than test the strength of the glass)

 

Once on the roof you can use external stairs to climb to very top of the battlement for a fantastic view of the city.

From the top of the battlement I got to appreciate how Nizwa was a fantastic blend of old and new buildings

In the basement of the castle there was a museum which explained the history of the fort and how people survived when the city was under siege.

One of the most important food items that was stored in the fort for such times was dates.  Within the walls of the castle there were two date stores which could hold an estimated 2.5 tonnes of dates.  The dates were stored in sacks that were stacked in rows, one on top of another.

Pressed under their own weight, the dates oozed asil (thick honey like juice) which was channeled into jars set in the floor.  This juice could be consumed, used to help women who were in labour (no explanation of how it was used though), and when danger threatened the juice could be heated to boiling point and poured through ‘murder’ holes located above entrance doorways to the fort and castle.

Although the castle was newly restored the displays and descriptions gave a fantastic glimpse into what life would have been like here in the past.  Plus, as recently as 1950, the fort was under attack when the British Royal Air Force bombed it !!! (The brits were asked to assist in suppressing a revolt that was driven by a struggle for shares in Oman’s newly discovered oil wealth)

After visiting the castle and seeing the blend of old and new buildings I took a ride through the old city to take a closer look at the buildings, and it was a fascinating ride.

Many of the old buildings have been preserved and throughout the old part of the city there are hundreds of community plots where residents still kept goats and grew crops and dates.

To show you what a wonderful place it is here is a short video that I shot as I wound my way aimlessly through the streets

Like in all of the other other cities that I have visited in Oman Nizwa owes its existence to having access to a year round water source.  There are 3 main falajs in Nizwa – Daris, Al Ghantuq and Dhoot but the largest and most easily accessible is Falaj Daris.

Falaj Daris consists of two separate water channels that originate from separate sources or ‘mother wells’.  Where the water first surfaces this serves as a collection point for drinking water.   From this point the water continues its journey above ground in channels supplying mosques, bathing areas and finally date plantations.

If I thought the channeling of the water was an amazing feat of engineering then when it came to who could use the water and when then this was even more complex. 

The sharing of water for the plantations is based on an equitable rotation system known as a ‘ddawaran’ which relies on the concept of ‘baddah’, a 24 hour period divided into 30 minute units or ‘athars’  Each baddah has a total of 48 anthars – 24 daytime and 24 nighttime anthars.

What you have to bear in mind is that when these systems were set up there were no clocks and it was based on the movement of the sun and stars.  The daytime anthers were measured with a sundial.  Nighttime anthars were determined by the movements of the stars. 

On cloudy or rainy days, or when the sun and stars could not be observed, aflaj was times by a special method involving two bowls. One of the bowls was small, and had two holes in it.  The other was large and was filled with water.  The smaller bowl was made to a specific size, and the time it took to fill up and sink to the bottom of the larger bowl was exactly 30 minutes.  Ingenious or what !!!

By the time that I had finished visiting the falaj it was nearly 5pm and time to head to the souq to see what was happening.

The site of the souq is one of the oldest in Oman and this extensive marketplace is dedicated mainly to fruit, veg, meat and fish (with shops selling tourist souvenirs at one end).  The souq today is housed in new buildings and there is a livestock market each morning at the opposite end of the souq from the tourist souvenirs. 

As I was here in the evening the livestock market was closed (except for a few trucks selling cattle, sheep and goats in the car park)

The fruit and veg market was quiet but there were still a handful of traders trying to pick up evening trade

The meat market absolutely stunk so I didn’t bother sticking my head into it.

The area that seemed to be doing the most trade was the fish market

The process seemed to be that first of all you haggled with the sellers over the price of your fish and once you bought some you would then pay a fishmonger to gut and fillet the fish for you.

The cleaned fish would then be put into a plastic bag ready for you to take home. 

The fish market was such a hive of activity that I bought myself a cup of tea and sat back to watch it in action.

As it was getting dark I cycled back to the hotel I had stayed in the night before as at 35 GBP it was great value – modern suite room, swimming pool and buffet breakfast.  It was so good that I decided to stay for another night.

The next day it was time to start my ride into the mountains and take a crack at climbing Jebel Shams. The main climb up to the top of Jebel Shams, Oman’s highest mountain, was still nearly 100km away and it would take me a couple of days to get to the bottom of the climb.

After a leisurely swim followed by another looooong breakfast I loaded my gear back onto the bike and cycled out into the blazing midday sun. I have no idea how people manage to live here in July at the height of the summer when temperatures in some parts of Oman reach well over 50C degrees.  Even now, it was like cycling through an oven with the fan set to turbo.

As I was leaving Nizwa I passed a restaurant called the ‘Hungry Bunny’.  I had to stop to take a picture as the rabbit which is their logo must have been smoking some good drugs.

In complete contrast, as I set off again in the distance I could see a huge mosque and so I took a detour to go take a look

Although Nizwa is not the capital city many people refer to it as the spiritual and capital of Oman and in 2009 plans to build a new regional size mosque in the area were drawn up.

The recently completed mosque is second only to the Grand Mosque in Muscat and the four minarets stand out as a landmark for the community it serves.

As it was early afternoon by the time I arrived I was not allowed to go into the main prayer hall but after a quick change out of my shorts in the car park I could freely wander around the sahans that surrounded the prayer hall.

The grand entrance is located on the eastern side of the mosque and although fairly simple in design there are lots of finer decorative details in the stonework.

It was a beautiful building to wander around and a great space to sit in the shade to reflect on life.

As time was ticking on and I still hadn’t left the city I contemplated heading back to the hotel for another night but my time was fast running out in Oman so I cycled on. 

I had planned to get to the town of Al Hamra that evening but given that it was already nearly 3pm that wasn’t going to happen before dark, and even though traffic was light I tried not to ride at night.  Instead, I decided to head for Bahla which was about 50km away and camp there for the night.

The quickest way to get there was straight down the highway but there was a dirt raod which ran parallel that I took instead as it kept me away from the speeding traffic.

As I had missed lunch I stopped around 3pm to get some food at a restaurant next to the highway.

I think that when they built the restaurant they built it the wrong way around as it is called the ‘Hillview Restaurant’ but as the mountains were behind it once inside all you could see was the highway and desert.

To get to Bahla I needed to go through the town of Jibreen and while looking at the map to find a suitable camping area to ride to I noticed that it had a castle and so headed there after enjoying another late lunch of Indian food.

The castle was over 300 years old and like most castles and forts parts of it had had recently been given a ‘facelift’ with a fresh skim of plaster.  

As with most attractions in Oman they close their doors at 4pm and so when I arrived it was already shut.  I would have liked to see the inside though as apparently this one has elaborately painted ceilings and many walls are adorned with floral motifs. 

I had decided that I would camp on the other side of the town of Bahla and although it was getting late as long as the traffic was light I would ride until it went dark.

Like Nizwa, Bahla has its own double gated archway into the town

The town is infamous among Omani’s for something called ‘jinn’.  They are spirits that are blamed for all sorts of evil eyed activity and are considered a living legend in the folklore of the country.

There is a great story that the beautiful fort is cursed by a ‘jinn’ which haunts it and whenever they try to renovate it, it is said to fall down in other areas.  When I visited the fort was closed for renovations !!!

Bahla is one of the most comprehensive walled cities in the world and as I cycled out of the centre to find somewhere to camp I followed sections of the original wall.

That night I once again camped in a date plantation at the foot of the Hijar Mountains.

The next morning I had planned on having a crack at completing the 2000m climb to the top of Jebel Shams, but like all well laid plans when cycling a bike they have a habit of changing.

Al Hamra is the town that acts as the base for many people who want to visit the Hijar Mountains as it is centrally located between the two main climbs up Jebel Shams and Jebel Akhtar.

When I reached the town I should of turned left from where it was a 37km climb up to the top of Oman’s highest mountain and from where I would be able to camp at the top of Oman’s very own Grand Canyon.

However, instead I turned left and followed the signs for Al Hoota Caves which lay about 10km away.

As I was now at about 500m elevation the air was much cooler than in the desert and all along the edge of the road crops were being grown and harvested. For the first time in Oman it smelt like summer back home.

The caves are estimated to be over 2 million years old, Al Hoota Cave  and legend has it that they were only recently discovered when a shepherd went in search of one of his goats which had fell down a crack in the rock.

The total length of the cave system that has been surveyed is nearly 5km of which the first 500m or so have been made into a ‘show’ cave that is accessible to the general public.

This was the first real touristy thing that I had been to in Oman and to get into to the cave I had to take a train!!!!

The train ride was only about a kilometer and even though we could have walked it was fun for the kids.

The cave contained a rich ecosystem that included four lakes, of which the larger central lake was accessible.

It is estimated that the central lake is around 800m long and holds about 30,000 m³ of water.  There were lots of small fish swimming and the tour guide said that they were Garra Barreimiae, which are more commonly known as cave fish or blind fish.

The fish were around 10cm long, and although they had ‘eyes’ they did not function as before the cave was opened to tourists they have lived for centuries in total darkness.

The other animal species which live in the cave are bats, anthropods, mollusks, spiders, snails and beetles.  So as not to disturb their habitat photography is banned in the cave, but I sneaked a few pics with the flash off.

The walk through the cave was conducted as a group with a tour guide pointing out the obligatory rock shapes with a lazer pen.  Most of the shapes he pointed out were definitely a stretch of the imagination, but from the right angle the ‘Lion’ was pretty good.

After our guided walk the lights were turned out, the entrance door sealed and we all got back on the train for the short journey back to the carpark.

By the time I had finished my tour of the cave it was lunchtime and so I cyced back towards Al Hamra to find a restaurant for lunch.

There was a ‘cold store’ next to the restaurant and I popped in to get some grapes to eat as I started my cycle towards Jebel Shems.  I went to pay and for the first time in nearly 3 weeks the owner tried to rip me off.  Everywhere that I have been in Oman I haven’t had to once query the price but he said told me the price was 1 OMR (about 2 GBP).  For the amounts of grapes that I had this was nearly triple the price I should have been charged.  When I queried it the Baengali worker next to him said it would be 0.40 OMR.  Cheeky buggers.

After lunch it was time to start the ride onto the lower slopes of Jebel Shams, but I wanted to test my legs and try to complete the main climb in one hit the following day.

About 14km from Al Hamra,  at the base of the main climb, was Wadi Ghul. It’s vertical cliffs rise for more than 1000m to form the Grand Canyon. If I could access it, it seemed like the ideal spot to head for to camp the night.

As I cycled to the entrance to the wadi the Hajar Mountains looked stunning.

Again, like most other places in Oman the local name differs from the name on the map, and when I reached what I thought was the head of the canyon there was a road across the dry wadi bed, but the road sign at the turn was for the village of Nakhr.

I asked one of the locals and he said that if I cycled up the wadi and passed the abandoned village then I would be able to access the canyon.

Within the date plantation at the head of Wadi Ghul there was a mosque where a tap dispensed ice cold water

After filling up my water bottles and bladder I cycled into the mouth of the canyon

I checked the map and it looked like to get to the point where the vertical sides of the canyon were over 1000m high I would need to cycle down the gravel bed for nearly 10km.  As I was fully loaded with water then this wasn’t feasible and so after getting into the head of the canyon I decided to camp in the date trees along the side of the wadi.

I left my bike on the gravel while I went in search of a flat spot that I could camp for the night.

As I set up camp my only company were the goats that wandered up and down the wadi.

The next morning I was woken by the sound of barking.  It wasn’t the bark of a dog as it was deeper and was just one dark.  What it turned out to be was a male goat on the hillside above my tent.  Who knew that goats could bark !!!w

After breakfast and a quick shower it was time for my biggest challenge in Oman – to ride to the top of the highest mountain in Oman.

From where I started cycling that day there was a couple of kilometers of ‘roller coasters’ which got my legs warmed up.

After that I was straight into steep curves, which in parts was easily over 20%, as the road wound its way up the mountain.

All I could do was drop the bike down into the granny gear and grind my way up the 5km or so of switchbacks.  How I never snapped the chain on the climb I have no idea.

I eventually reached the top of the curves and the view back down was beautiful.

From this point there was a steep downhill section into the next valley and in the bottom there was a coffee shop where I pulled over to get a drink and something to eat.

After enjoying one of the best Indian meals that I had eaten in Oman it was time to get to the top of the mountain.

About 1 kilometre after the restaurant the sealed road ended and I was back climbing on a dirt track.

The road continued to climb and the views across the mountains were beautiful

It was like I was cycling on a different planet

Although this section of the road was not as steep as the first few kilometers of the climb they were more difficult as there wasn’t much grip on the dirt track.

The steepest part was just before I reached the summit and diggers were busy grading the road.  There were a couple of inches of loose and rock on top of the road and my back tyre span out.  I had managed to ride the whole road up until this point but without traction I was now pushing the bike.

If you have never tried to push a 30kg dead weight up a 20 percent incline let me tell you that it is far easier cycling it.

The company was good though and the shaggist goat that I think that I have ever seen joined me on my walk.

I rounded one final bend and that was it, I had cycled to the top of Jebel Shams. 

Behind me was a drop of over 1000m to the bottom of Oman’s very own Grand Canyon

That night I intended to camp on the very edge of the Grand Canyon and I knew that somewhere below me there was a goat track walkway known as the balcony walk which wound its way along the canyon.

I couldn’t access it from where I was but I had been told that if I continued to the very end of the dirt track I would be able to find the start of the walkway.

As I cycled to find the start of the walkway I passed the Jebel Shams Resort Hotel and pulled in to see if I could fill my water bottles and bladder so that I could have a shower.

Just inside the entrance there was a toilet block which has water that can be drunk

There were no shops at the top of the climb but the two hotels that I passed both hde restaurants that were open to the public.  As I had brought food with me I was self-sufficient and after collecting water cycled out in search of the balcony walk.

At the very end of the track there is a small village called Al Khitaym

The village only consisted of a few houses and the locals seemed to make a living from selling trinkets and drinks to the many tourists that parked nearby in order to access the balcony walk.

The balcony walk is really a goat track that tourists use to walk along the very edge of the canyon and I pushed my bike about 200m down it until I found a flat area to camp

The area that I found to pitch my tent was above the first seating hut that I came to (if you scramble up the cliff on the right hand side of the hut you will find the flat area where I camped)

My camping spot was right on the edge of the canyon and I had a pretty spectacular view right to the bottom.  I just hoped that there wasn’t a storm that night otherwise the wind may well have blown my tent over the edge.

In the distance I could even see the village of Nakhr where I had camped the night before.

As the sun was setting I got dinner on

I ate my dinner sat in my chair as I watched the canyon turn a brilliant red as the sun dipped down behind the top of the mountain.  A perfect end to a fantastic day.

Here is a short video that I shot that will give you a better idea of how spectacular the setting was.

In the night there had been no wind and, thankfully, when I woke my tent was still perched on the edge of the canyon.

The morning light was spectacular and I could see the goat track which doubled as the balcony walk as it wound its way through the canyon

The track is the very thin line which runs from about half way up the left hand edge of the picture above.

After breakfast I packed up my tent and wheeled the bike back down to the seating hut where I left the goats guarding it while I hiked my way along the balcony walk

The walk was spectacular and in places there was not below except the shear vertical walls of the canyon wall which were over 1000m tall.

It took me about an hour to reach the abandoned village and seasonal waterfall which mark the end of the walk.

 

In the picture above if you look carefully you can see the point where the river enters the canyon at the very top of the picture and the water would then drop for nearly 1000m to the wadi at the bottom of the canyon.  The arch that you can see is the carved out is the back wall of the waterfall.

Eventually this arch will collapse expanding the canyon and the process will begin again.  Although this process is slow over millions of years this is how the canyon has ‘grown’.

Up until about 30 years ago people still lived in the small village and in the picture below you can see the terraces where they grew crops right above the arched back wall of the waterfall

 


The other thing that you will notice is that the terraces sit on the very top of the arch and there is only a very thin band of rock that supports them. Perhaps, this was one reason why the villagers who lived there abandoned their homes.

Here is a video to show you what a stunning walk it was:

It had been a great walk but now I had to hike back for another hour to retrieve my bike.  When I got there the goats were still standing guard as they used the hut for shade to get out of the baking sun.

It was then time to head back down the mountain, and I can assure you that the ride out was far quicker than the climb up had been the day before.

As I was heading down I had stopped to take some photos when a car pulled up in front of me and a guy got out and started running back up the hill to see if I needed anything.

The guy turned out to be Ignacio who was from Spain and on his own cycle around the world (although he had hitched a lift up Jebel Shams with a couple of girls who had been staying at the same hotel as him).

After a quick chat about our journeys through Oman we arranged to meet up a few days later at Catherine’s house (a warmshowers host) in the town of Ibri. 

It was then time to finish my descent and  as I neared the bottom I stopped at a mosque to refill my water bottles.  When I left the mosque I picked up a big wad of chewing gum on my front tyre and instead of stopping I hoped that it would wear off as I rolled down the hill.  

On a bike it never pays to be lazy and instead of wearing away the chewing gum picked up a couple of thorns and before I new it I was sat by the side of the road fixing a puncture.

I had a spare tube with me and so instead of putting a patch on the puncture I decided that I would just switch the tube out as it was much easier. It took me about 20 minutes to get back on the road and in that time 4 Omani drivers had stopped to see if I was okay, which was fantastic.

I didn’t descend all the way to Wadi Ghul and the bottom of the canyon as my plan was to  take a shortcut and climb my way over one final mountain rather than retracing my route back to the highway at Jibreen.  The shortcut would save me around 40 km of cycling but probably not much in time as I knew that it would be a steep climb on a dirt track.

At the village of Minthar I turned off the sealed road and took the dirt track that would take me over the mountain pass to towards the village of Subaykhah where I would eventually meet up with the highway again a few kilometres short of the city of Ibri.

That ride was for another day though as it was after 5pm and so I decided that I would camp in the wadi for the night and have a crack at the mountain pass the next morning.
That night as I sat waiting for dinner to cook I looked through my photos from the last few days and I was one happy camper.  Life on a bike is truly amazing.

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The Road to Jebel Shams, Oman
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